After hearing the name ‘’calico’’, many of us think of cats. Calico is one of the most popular breeds of domesticated cats known for its beautiful tri-color coat. However, the calico I will talk about is not a fabulous feline, even though it does share the exquisiteness of a calico cat. So, what is calico material?
Is calico the most multi-purpose fabric known to us? Can it fit into any of your projects? If you are here, I assume you have lots of questions about calico fabrics. In this article, I will cover everything you need to know about calico fabrics. If you want a proper lowdown on calico fabrics, stay with us patiently for the next few minutes or so.
What is Calico Fabric?
Calico is a plain-weave or tabby-weave fabric made of 100% cotton fiber. So, what makes it different from regular cotton? Unlike other cotton fabrics, calico comes completely untreated. It does not come in contact with bleach or any other chemicals during its production. For this reason, calico is also known as ‘half-processed cotton.’
What is Calico Made of?
The main ingredient of making calico fabric is cotton fibers which are 100% natural. Cotton fibers are collected from matured cotton seed bolls of a cotton plant by separating the seeds from the fibers.
How is Calico Fabric Made?
Calico and cotton have the same production procedure other than one key detail. In the case of the calico, the process is finished after the weaving of the cotton fibers is done. On the other hand, cotton fibers are bleached, processed, and dyed after the weaving process to make different types of cotton fabrics.
- Stage 1: Cotton fibers are harvested from cotton seed bolls and separated from the seeds. Any other substances are also removed. This process is called ginning. Then the raw cotton is compressed into lint and shipped to spinning mills.
- Stage 2: The next stage is combing or carding. Here cotton fibers are untangled from one another and then aligned and gotten rid of impurities.
- Stage 3: Then, they smooth out the fiber by combing. This process ensures that the fiber is high quality, uniform, and ready to be transformed into cotton yarn with the help of a spinning machine.
- Stage 4: The spinning machines spin the fibers, turning them into thicker and stronger yarns.
- Stage 5: The last stage of calico production is the weaving stage. One distinguishing feature of the natural calico is its plain weave construction, in which the weft (the lengthwise yards) alternates between going over and under the warp (the crosswise yarns). This process is done while preserving the raw undyed natural color of the cotton.
Calico Fabric Properties
The calico fabric has a natural capacity for airflow. So, it’s breathable and keeps you cool in the scorching heat. However, thicker calico fabrics show less breathability.
Non-Static
This fabric is inherently non-static and doesn’t irritate the skin. So, if you have sensitive skin, calico is a great choice of fabric for you.
Extremely Hygroscopic
Absorbs up to ten times its weight in water without leaking. That’s why it’s Slow to dry. But it will also keep your skin dry by quickly absorbing sweat in hot weather.
Strong and Durable
This fabric is very sturdy and durable because of its high-quality yarn and balanced weaving process.
Can Be Treated
Treatments, such as boiling, can be done to get rid of the roughness of the calico fabrics. Washing several times also makes the calico softer.
Biodegradable and Recyclable
Since calico fabrics are made from natural cotton fibers, it is 100% biodegradable and recyclable. Hence, it’s an eco-friendly fabric.
Easy to Wash and Dye
This fabric is easy to wash with cold or warm water. Because of its undyed raw nature, you can dye this fabric in any color you wish without breaking a sweat.
Fire Retardant
Proban-processed calico fabrics have fire-retardance quality. So, probation-treated calico is used to make firefighter uniforms.
Calico Fabric Characteristics:
Calico is a natural fabric made from natural cotton fibers. No additives are used while making calico fabrics.
Natural Color:
There is no added color in this fabric. It only has the natural beige or gray hue of the cotton fibers. But it can be dyed with natural dyes.
Soft Texture But High Sturdiness:
In comparison to other cotton mixes, this material has a much rougher and coarser texture and is much more robust. Calico isn’t as sturdy as denim or canvas.
On the other hand, silk has a considerably softer texture compared to calico. However, 100% cotton calico is smoother to the touch than other types of calico fabric.
Low Thread Count:
It has a low thread count, which makes the fabric comfortable to wear. Lower thread count allows for more air permeability, which makes calico the perfect summer wear.
Size and Weight:
It is an excellent choice of high-quality cotton because of its availability in various sizes and weights.
Abrasion Resistant:
Calico is highly abrasion resistant which makes it wear and tear proof. Therefore, calico is often used to make heavy-duty protective apparel.
Poor Elasticity:
It has low elasticity, so it creases easily, and you need to iron it frequently. However, calico’s low elasticity makes it easier to sew on.
Types of Calico Fabric
There are four types of calico fabrics. These variants differ in weight, width, and weave.
- 100% Cotton Calico: It’s the original loom state calico. It is undyed and weighs 115 gm per square meter. They are typically used for making cheesecloths, upholstery, outfits, etc. It is completely biodegradable.
- Drill Calico: The drill calico weighs more than its natural calico counterpart. It’s neatly woven and weighs 240 grams per square meter. The drill calico combines the drill’s precision with the calico’s splotchy aesthetic.
- Fire-Retardant Calico: This variety of calico is also 100% cotton with a weight of 115 gm per square meter. But there is a slight difference. As its name suggests, the fire-retardant calico is fireproof. Proban, a fire-retardant chemical, is used in the finishing procedures of this fabric to make it fire-resistant. It’s mostly used to make personal protection wear.
- Extra Wide Fire-Retardant Calico: It is the widest of the other calico fabrics. This 118-inch width calico is also processed with the fire-retardant probation, which makes it extra durable. Due to its security features, sturdiness, longevity, and extra-wide breadth, it is the best choice for prominent event designers to make covers, backdrops, etc.
What is Calico Used for?
The most common use of calico fabric is in the fashion industry. Designers use it to make their garments’ prototypes, also known as ‘toils’. They do this to try out different designs with cheap calicos before making them with the final fabric.
You can incorporate this idea in your fashion designing or sewing projects, for example, making clothing samples to present your designs of blouses, dresses, or gowns. It can also be used as a lining material and for Sampling dyes, stitches, etc.
